In this article you will find a comprehensive overview of almost all UV filters approved in the EU. We explain their properties, advantages and disadvantages so that you can find the best sun protection filters for your needs.

Important in advance: Every approved UV filter offers protection against UV radiation (the protection factor is tested on test subjects regardless of the formulation). I mark my personal favorites with a 💜. None of the UV filters listed has been proven to be harmful to health. Some lead to intolerances a little more often than others, but these are rare and individual. Some filters that have gone out of fashion, such as benzophenone or oxybenzone, are practically no longer used in the EU and are therefore not included in this list.

Contents

• Inorganic filters
• Organic filters
• UVB filter
• UVA filters
• broadband filter
• Mexoryl filter (L'Oréal patents)

Inorganic filters

Inorganic UV filters (also known as physical or mineral filters ) offer effective sun protection, but often have the disadvantage of making the skin appear white (so-called whitening ). Nanoparticles of these filters have a less severe whitening effect. These filters are the only ones that can be used in certified natural cosmetics. To date, no allergies to mineral filters have been reported, making them a good choice for people with very sensitive skin or sensitive eyes.

Titanium Dioxide (nano)

Other names : CI77891, TiO2 

Titanium dioxide is a broad-spectrum filter. It is strongest in the UVB range. Titanium dioxide was recently banned as a food additive in the EU due to inconclusive studies. It can be assumed that titanium dioxide is safe in cosmetics, provided it is not inhaled as an aerosol (from sprays or powders).

Nerd fact: Titanium dioxide is used in particular in decorative cosmetics to make colors more opaque or as a glitter pigment. It is also used in wall paint as a white pigment.

Zinc Oxide (nano)

Other names : Z-Cote®, ZnO

Zinc oxide is a weak broad-spectrum filter and must be used in fairly high concentrations. It provides greater protection in the UVA range than titanium dioxide. Zinc oxide is also anti-inflammatory and even has a slightly mattifying effect, making it particularly interesting for impure, oily skin .

Caution: Modern zinc oxide filters are usually coated so that the particles do not clump together and react with other substances. Some natural cosmetic products may still contain uncoated filters. Be careful when combining them with other products.

Also: DIY with zinc oxide is not a good idea at all! Firstly, there is the issue of the coating. Secondly, you can only get it distributed finely enough with industrial mixers with a high shear rate. Thirdly: there is no reliable SPF ( sun protection factor ) without an official test.

Organic filters

Organic filters contain carbon in their structure. This group allows for a variety of different variants. The term "organic" comes historically from the fact that these molecules were associated with the "chemistry of life". They are also called synthetic or chemical UV filters (although of course the inorganic ones also consist of chemicals and are manufactured industrially).

Organic filters come with different properties: They can be a pure liquid oil or a powder (oil or water soluble). There are also non-soluble organic filters that are present as fine particles and thus have similar properties to inorganic filters. These are also called hybrid filters .

Among the UVB filters, there are significantly more "old-fashioned" filters . In the past, the importance of UVA protection was not so well known. However, this aspect was taken into account when developing the new generation of filters.

Organic UVB filters

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone 💜

Other names: Uvasorb® HEB, Isotrizinol, DBT

Effective, modern UV filter. Powder dissolves very well in oils. No allergies observed so far.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Other names: Octinoxate, EHMC

Must be stabilized by other filters. Rather old-fashioned filter. Still used very frequently in products from the USA.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Other names: Octisalate, EHS

It is not photostable on its own, but in combination with other UV filters it is an established and widely used filter. In its pure form, this filter is a liquid oil.

Ethylhexyl Triazone 💜

Other names: Uvinul® T150, Octyltriazone, EHT

Modern UV filter. Highest absorption coefficient among photostable filters. No allergies observed so far.

homosalates

Still approved at 7%. Very good solvent for other UV filters. Burning in the eyes is often attributed to this filter.

Octocrylene

Previously the most commonly used filter. Stabilizes other UV filters. Not particularly protective in itself, but dissolves other filters very well and creates elegant textures.

Unfortunately, it has fallen into disrepute due to low concentrations of degradation products after the expiration date. However, if you use a fresh sunscreen every year and store it properly, you have nothing to fear in this regard.

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Other names: Ensulizol, PBSA

Very stable and even anti-inflammatory. This filter itself has a rather low absorption profile, but is often used in small concentrations as a supplement to other UV filters. One of only two patent-free water-soluble filters.

Polysilicone-15

Other names: Parsol® SLX, Dimethico-Diethylbenzal-Malonate

Lightweight, sturdy silicone-based filter. Supports a pleasant skin feeling.

Organic UVA filters

Unfortunately, the list of pure UVA filters currently available is not very long. However, broad-spectrum filters can also be used for additional UVA protection.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 💜

Other names: Avobenzone, BMDBM

Very effective UVA spectrum. Not photostable itself, but in combination with other filters such as Octocrylene or Tinosorb ® S achieves recovery rates of over 80%. Currently the only UVA filter approved in the USA.

Included in Skinneered UVA Booster .

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 💜

Other names: Uvinul® A Plus, DHHB

Modern, stable UVA filter with high skin compatibility. Even has antioxidant properties.

Included in Skinneered UVA Booster .

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate 💜

Other names: Neo Heliopan® AP, DPDT

Stable UVA filter that is even water-soluble . This allows for a more watery and lighter skin feel.

Included in Skinneered UVA Booster .

Organic broadband filters

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 💜

Other names: Tinosorb® S (Lite Aqua), BEMT

Modern, broad-spectrum protection of the new generation . Can stabilize avobenzone. Very skin-friendly and even has a slight anti-inflammatory effect. Also has an antioxidant effect. Also available as a water-soluble version encapsulated in a polymer (identifiable by the ingredient Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer).

Included in Skinneered UVA Booster .

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano) 💜

Other names: Tinosorb® M, MBBT

Stable hybrid filter . May whiten a little like mineral filters due to the particulate properties. Very low risk of allergies and skin irritation. Very broad absorption spectrum up to blue visible light.

Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazines 💜

Other names: TriAsorB™

On the market since 2019 and only found in Pierre Fabre products, such as those from the Avène brand. Very broad absorption spectrum up to blue visible light. Can therefore leave a slight yellow veil on some people.

Tris Biphenyl Triazine (nano) 💜

Other names: Tinosorb® A2B, TBPT

Due to its particulate properties, it can leave a slight whitening effect like mineral filters. Similar to Tinosorb S & M.

L'Oréal patents

These filters are all broad-spectrum filters and, due to the patents, can only be found in L'Oréal products (brands such as Garnier, La Roche Posay, Vichy, Skinceuticals, Biotherm, etc.).

Drometrizole Trisiloxane 💜

Trade name: Mexoryl® XL, DTS

Stable, waterproof filter. Pioneer with patent from 1982. Works synergistically with Mexoryl SX.

Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate 💜

Trade name: Mexoryl® 400, MCE

Approved since 2020 and therefore the newest filter on the market. Most effective protection in the long-wave UVA range. Can be found, for example, in the La Roche Posay UVMune400 products.

Terephthalidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid 💜

Trade name: Mexoryl® SX, TDSA

Strong in the UVA range. Water soluble. Proven to barely penetrate the skin.

Finally...

...maybe the question is why so many sunscreens leave you feeling greasy ?

In order to slow down the UV radiation, the filters must contain "elastic" electrons. This is provided by the hexagonal, honeycomb-shaped structures in molecules. They look a bit like trampolines :) These so-called benzene rings are difficult to dissolve in water. Most filters are They are therefore oil-soluble and require a similar amount of additional solvents with oily properties in order to distribute them well in the cream.

So if a cream consists of 25% filters, it is composed of around 50% oily components. This is a significantly higher proportion than in moisturizers.

Your Ying

Engineer, Cosmetic Scientist and Founder of Skingineered